The Pet Travel Scheme:

Introduced to the UK in 2000, the Pet Travel Scheme (PETS), allows pet owners to take their animals to specific overseas countries and bring them back into the UK without having to go through quarantine. In order to qualify for this scheme there are some very strict rules that need to be adhered to, and there is no leeway or flexibility so it is essential you get it right if you are considering travelling outside the UK with your pet.

Here are the key facts you need to know about the PETS:

• The scheme only applies to dogs, cats and, rather strangely, ferrets.
• To qualify for the scheme pets need to have a microchip implanted under the skin. This relatively painless procedure involves a large injection in the scruff of the neck, usually done by a vet, and typically costs between £10 and £30.
• All pets need to be vaccinated against rabies, which involves a single (or sometimes two) injections administered by a vet. The costs for this vary but a likely to be around £40 per injection. Most vets nowadays just give one injection, but some prefer to give two as this is slightly more reliable.
• After the rabies vaccination a blood tests is taken to check that the rabies injection has worked. This tends to be the most expensive part of the procedure, costing up to £80*
• Once the blood test has confirmed that the pet is fully protected against rabies, the vet will issue a pet passport which is an official document that is needed when you come back into the UK. And yes, it does have a space for a nice picture of your pet, although this is not a legal requirement!
• Crucially, the passport is not valid for entry into the UK for 6 months after the date of the blood test, so you need to get organised well in advance of coming back into the UK*
• All pets must be treated with an approved tick and worm treatment between 24 and 48 hours before re-entering the UK.
• Pet passports are only valid for a specific list of countries which includes the all of the countries of the EU, the USA, Canada and most of the Caribbean islands.

This may all sound quite daunting but in practice it is usually very straightforward once the initial paperwork and waiting period is over. Ask your vet for advice and to organise microchipping, rabies vaccination and blood tests, and you can also visit the DEFRA website at www.defra.gov.uk for more information.

* Latest news is that DEFRA are going to remove the requirement for a blood test and reduce the minimum time between the vaccination and return to the UK to 3 weeks, and this should be in force in 2012 so keep an eye on the news for confirmation. To find out more, visit the DEFRA website at http://www.defra.gov.uk/news/2011/06/30/new-rules-pet-passports/

On holiday:

It’s all too easy to get carried away when you get to your hotel or apartment and forget that your pet might not settle into things as quickly as the rest of the family. Always make sure they have time and space to acclimatise themselves to their new surroundings and remember to take extra care when letting them outside in case they get lost or confused. It’s always worth taking extra precautions, such as keeping a dog on the lead, as there’s nothing quite like a lost pet to ruin a holiday!

Once you’ve settled into your holiday, there are some other important things to bear in mind as to make sure you and your pets enjoy a safe and happy holiday:

• The sun can be dangerous to pets as well as people – pets with white skin, especially on their ears, are particularly prone to sunburn and even skin cancer so use a high-factor sun block on any white areas of skin that don’t have much fur cover.
• Dogs (and cats) can easily overheat and suffer from hyperthermia in hot weather – to avoid this make sure they always have access to shade, fresh water and plenty of fresh air.
• While dogs in particular often enjoy playing in the sea, rivers or lakes, there can be hazards such as dangerous currents, hidden obstacles and even toxic blue-green algae in stagnant water, so make sure you check out any water before letting the dog plunge in.

Staying at home:

There may be time when taking your pet away with you is just not practical and you have to look at alternative arrangements such as kennels or catteries. Although some pets really do enjoy these ‘staycations’, for many it’s time to be endured rather than enjoyed, so it is important to help make them as comfortable as possible while you’re away. Here are my tips for helping your pets enjoy the kennel or cattery experience:

• Check out any kennel or cattery in person before sending your pets there. Look for modern, clean and comfortable accommodation, kind and enthusiastic staff, and safe and appropriate exercise facilities.
• If possible take your pet’s own food so they don’t have to change their diet while they stay, as this can cause digestive upsets.
• Take your pets favourite bedding, toys and anything else that will help make them feel at home

Whether you are heading across Europe or just across the UK there are some important things to consider before setting off with your pets:

• Always plan your journey with your pets in mind – so make sure you schedule in plenty of breaks into car journeys, and try not to go too far on trains or buses in one go.
• Make sure you pack everything your pet needs for the journey, including:
  • Water and a suitable drinking bowl
  • Food if the journey is going to extend beyond mealtimes
  • Poop scooper or bags for dogs
  • Bed or blanket
  • Favourite toys
  • Lead
  • Never, ever leave your pet in a parked car for any length of time as even short periods on moderately hot days can be fatal
  • Some dogs can get car sick but you reduce this by using a car seat harness to allow them to sit on the back seat and see out the front. If this doesn’t work or isn’t practical, ask your vet about car sickness medications such as ACP tablets (which also help sedate pets for long journeys) or Cernina (a powerful anti-sickness drug).

Frequently Asked Questions:

Q. I really want to take my dog to France this summer but he doesn’t have a passport – is there any way I can get a passport organised in time?

A. No – at the moment the 6 month rule is very strict and there is no way your dog would be allowed back into this country until 6 months after the blood test for rabies is taken. Your only option if you wanted  to go to France earlier than that would be to enjoy a very long holiday and wait until the 6 months are up before coming home! However this does look set to change from 2012 with the interval between vaccination and re-entry to the UK dropping to 3 weeks which will make things much easier.

Q. How often do I need to vaccinate my dog against rabies to keep his passport up to date?

A. The usual interval is 2 years but 3 years is acceptable in some cases depending on the vaccine brand used. Your vet will be able to advise you on this.

Q. How can I find holiday accommodation that accepts pets?

A. There are several good online guides available including www.petfriendlyhotels.com and www.dogfriendlybritain.co.uk and these are the best places to find hotels and B&B’s that welcome 4 legged members of the family.

Q. I’m thinking of taking my cat away on a caravanning holiday as he really misses us when we go – is this sensible?

A. My advice would be not to risk it as however well-behaved and home-loving you cat may be, there’s always the chance that they will take fright and run off, or simply get lost and you’ll spend your holiday desperately searching for them. I speak from bitter experience on this one, having spent a miserable 48 hours in Devon hunting for a girlfriend’s cat after agreeing to let it come on our camping trip! We did find it in the end but it ruined the holiday – and ultimately the relationship as well!

The issue of ultimate target weight is more subjective and should always be kept in context with the concurrent use of condition scoring as a ‘fail safe’ back up. For example, if your vet advises that your 30kg dog needs to lose 5kg to get to a target weight of 25kg, it might be that at 26kg, a condition score exercise determines that your dog is actually now at a ‘normal’ weight and the weight loss program can be stopped rather than continuing on the arbitrary figure of 25kg. Always be prepared to modify your target based on the physical evidence of condition scoring as this is a much more reliable and safe guide to your dog’s true state of weight than simply relying on what the scales say.

There are many approaches to effecting weight loss in dogs, ranging from simply feeding less and walking more, to the use of expensive ‘prescription’ diets, but whatever approach you chose to use, there are some key pieces of advice that you should consider:

1. Diet

Eating too much of the wrong kind of foods is the main reason that so many pets are overweight, and by making some simple changes to the way you feed your pet, you can make a big difference to their weight and wellbeing:

• Reduce the calories – the ideal way to keep your pet slim is to feed them exactly the right amount of calories, or energy, everyday. If they are overweight, then you simply need to feed less, or use a lower calorie food, and they will lose weight. Your vet will be able to give you detailed guidance, but generally reducing their total daily calories by around 20% is ideal. My new Vte;s Kitchen Light variety for dogs is ideal, containing 20% less fat and calories than our adult foods.
• Cut out the tit bits – leftovers and tit bits from the table are the number one enemy of slim pets! We tend to give the least healthy bits from our meals, such as fatty bits of meat, and these go straight from your plate onto your pet’s hips!
• Use healthy fillers – grated veg such as carrots or courgettes add bulk to food but very few calories so they are a good way of keeping your pet feeling full but not piling on the pounds.
• Small regular meals – are better than one big meal, so divide your dog’s food into 2 small meals, morning and evening.
• Choose a healthy food – avoid ‘junk foods’ containing high levels of sugars, fats and artificial additives.

1. Exercise

Along with a suitable diet, regular and appropriate exercise is vital to keep your dog in shape.

• Build up gradually – don’t suddenly change the amount of exercise your dog gets as this could cause health problems – instead, make the change gradually over a few weeks to let them adjust to the new regime, especially if they are old or very overweight.
• Make it fun – exercise regimes are so much easier to stick to if they are fun, so choose something that you and your pet will enjoy. Why not consider joining your local flyball club, or try mountain biking or jogging with your dog as activities like this can be a great way of burning off calories as well as being fun for all concerned.
• Take it easy – if your pet is old or suffers from a mobility problem such as arthritis it’s important not to overdo it. Regular short walks are much better for older dogs than long hikes, and make sure you talk to your vet if you are concerned about any lameness or stiffness associated with increased exercise.

1. General Weight Loss Tips

• Don’t give in to begging – dogs who beg will never be satisfied so even if you do give them the treat they want, they will still want more. Much better to be firm and only give them healthy snacks at set times such as just before bedtime.
• Give your pet attention, not treats – many owners use food as a reward and way of ‘buying’ affection from their pets – use attention as a reward instead by spending quality time with your pet.
• You are not being cruel by cutting down their food! A healthy, slim dog will be much happier than an overweight one.
• Dry food is much more filling than it looks – dry dog food swells up when it reaches the stomach, so what looks like a tiny portion will still fill your pet up.
• Neutering does not cause obesity! – many people worry that their pet will become overweight if it is neutered, and while it is true that neutering can slow the metabolism and reduce the amount of calories a pet needs, that doesn’t mean that this should automatically lead to weight gain, as you can easily reduce the amount of calories they eat to compensate for this.

Condition scoring involves assessing the pet’s body based on a variety of criteria including fat coverage, shape and prominence of underlying skeletal features, to give a score based on a scale, usually 1-5 (although some condition scoring scales are more detailed and include up to 10 different scores). My personal favourite approach is a simple scale from 1-5 based on assessing the following key features – fat coverage over the ribs, presence or absence of a waist behind the ribs if viewed from above, prominence or not of the hip bones and size of the abdomen. If you consider your pet’s body based on these criteria, you should be able to decide which of the following classifications best describes the condition of your pet:

1. Emaciated

It is easy to see your pet’s ribs, lumbar vertebrae, pelvic bones and all body prominences from a distance. There is no obvious body fat and clear evidence of muscle wastage.

2. Thin

Whilst you cannot easily see the ribs and the pelvic bones are not obviously prominent from a distance, your pet’s ribs are easily felt with no palpable fat. The tops of lumbar vertebrae are visible and there is an obvious abdominal tuck behind the ribs, as well as a clear waist when viewed from above.

3. Normal

A normal pet should have a distinct but not excessive covering of fat over the chest, through which the ribs are easily palpable. The abdomen tucked up when viewed from side, and there is a visible but not extensive waist when viewed from above. The pelvis and other bony prominences are well covered and not clearly visible.

4. Overweight

A pet that is overweight will generally be carrying up to 20% extra weight compared to a normal pet, and this is generally laid down around the chest and abdomen, making it hard to feel the ribs, and giving the abdomen a full appearance, with little or no abdominal tuck. There is also very little or no waist visible from above, and there may also be obvious fatty deposits in the lumbar region and around the base of the tail.

5. Obese

Pets carrying more than 20% extra weight are classified as obese and these pets will have large fat deposits over their chest, neck, spine and tail base. They have no waist or abdominal tuck behind the ribs, and their abdomens often appear distended. As well as appearing clearly overweight, their movement will also be affected by their weight, giving them a shortened stride and splayed leg appearance as their legs are forced outwards by fatty deposits.

Of course this is somewhat of an oversimplification of matters and if it was that straightforward there wouldn’t be an obesity problem, and there clearly is one. Pet owners are people and people don’t always work in a logical manner, with an infinite number of psychological influences affecting decision making. At the most extreme end of the spectrum, this can lead to a form of body dysmorphia projected onto their pets, making the owner see their pet as underweight when in fact they are grossly overweight, but in most cases it is more subtle influences such as anthropomorphism where the owner identifies too closely with the pet’s feelings, particularly hunger, or misplaced affection confusing feeding with love or attention. These ‘owner factors’ are one of the main reasons why we see so many overweight pets; the other main reason is lack of awareness and this can be a key contributing factor in many cases.

So obesity is clearly a significant issue, but how much actual clinical disease can we attribute to the growing waistlines of our dogs? There are some diseases where the impact of obesity is clear, such as arthritis where every extra pound a dog is carrying puts extra strain on the joints, or heart disease where extra effort is required to pump blood around the circulation, but there are others where the link is less obvious, including diabetes, liver disease, some skin diseases and many others. Put simply, obesity places an extra and unwelcome strain on the whole body and is a contributing factor in many clinical diseases. The end result is not just a reduced life-expectancy brought about by these related clinical conditions, but just as importantly, a reduced quality of life. Obese dogs are generally miserable dogs, unable to enjoy the basic pleasures that dogs should be able to take for granted – running, jumping, relaxing comfortably and so on. In most cases they enter a vicious cycle of weight gain leading to reduced exercise and enjoyment which in turn leads to further weigh gain and so on – and breaking this cycle is the key to treating an obese dog.

The origins of atopy are usually complex but there is certainly a strong genetic link as certain breeds such as Westies are particularly predisposed to this condition and suffer from particularly severe symptoms. In some cases the symptoms can be so severe that they can have a major impact on the quality of life of the pet – and in exceptional cases can even lead to animals being put to sleep, although this is thankfully very rare.

Diagnosing allergic skin disease is generally fairly straightforward and based on the clinical symptoms which typically include chewing and licking of the feet and groin, increased itchiness, and sometimes bald patches and areas of red and inflamed skin. There are other possible causes for these symptoms but allergies related to inhaled allergens would be at the top of most vet’s lists and is the diagnosis they would look to confirm and treat first.

In some mild cases vets will simply treat the symptoms on suspicion using anti-inflammatory drugs and supplements (usually containing omega 3 oils) but if this doesn’t work or if the symptoms are more serious, further diagnostic tests are often used. These can include blood tests to look for anti-bodies to specific allergens, and skin tests where tiny amounts of different pollens are injected into the skin and the reaction measured. Blood tests can provide a quick and relatively cheap way of diagnosing skin allergies, but they are not always as reliable as other tests and not all vets are convinced by the value of these tests. Skin tests are generally seen as more accurate but they are more involved, usually requiring the animal to be sent to a skin specialist to have them carried out.

Once a diagnosis is made there are then many treatment options to consider. The ideal way to treat any allergy is to eliminate the allergens causing the problem from the pet’s environment, but in most cases this is impractical – for example, if your dog is allergic to house dust mites or grass pollen, there is no way you can significantly reduce his exposure to these allergens. With exclusion being very hard or impossible, most cases are managed with a combination of medical therapies. These can include anti-inflammatory drugs such as steroids and cyclosporine (Atopica) as well as nutritional supplements including omega 3 oils and oat groats. These can all work well, but drugs such as steroids can have long term side effects, and cyclosporine is only variably effective as well as being expensive. The final option is tackling the allergy itself using so-called de-sensitising vaccinations. These are formulated specifically for individual animals and work by gradually getting the body used to the allergens causing the problems by injecting them in increasing doses under the skin. It can work well but is expensive and by no means guaranteed to cure the problem.

In conclusion, skin allergies are a major problem for our pets, particularly dogs, and treating them is never easy and usually involves a combination of approaches including medical therapy and supplements. If you’re worried about your dog’s skin, consult your vet for advice – and consider trying Vet’s Kitchen Healthy Skin omega 3 supplement as a first step in reducing itchiness and improving skin condition.

It’s amazing how bright and happy she seems to be considering what she’s been through – being hit by a car and then having to go through a one and a half hour operation. She’s still purring and doesn’t seem to be in any obvious pain which is a testament to the skill of Stuart Jackson who carried out the operation for us.